Ramblings of a Singapore Biker Boy
Adventures and micro-adventures on a motorcycle
It was time to replace the front brake disc and pads on my DRZ. While the rear pads still appear EXTREMELY chunky, the front pads were thinning. Also, the front brake disc were beyond its wear limits. Minimum thickness was supposedly 3.5mm, and my front disc measured 3.4mm!
I’ve been using Sena’s bluetooth intercom products for some years now. In fact, I currently have both the Sena 20S and the Sena 30K. While the 20S had served me for a good number of years, I love the Mesh Intercom – and especially the Mesh Intercom v2.0 – of the 30K. While Sena has released the spanking brand new 50R and 50S models earlier this year, I’m so glad that Sena hasn’t forgotten about the existing users.
First, the functionality of the 30K was bumped up to Mesh 2.0 with a firmware update. Sena promises greater Mesh communication robustness and reliability with their 2nd iteration of Mesh with up to 80% more data being communicated between the units. While I’ve not had the chance to test it in a longer tour due to the Covid travel restrictions, I’ve tried Mesh 2.0 with a couple of riding buddies on a mix of 30K’s and 50S’s. And I’m happy to report that it worked GREAT! Mesh 2.0 does appear to be more stable – especially when riders drop out and re-join the mesh network due to range.
Great job, Sena!
Today, Sena announced some more good news for existing users!
One of the BEST mods to make to a motorcycle is to add luggage carrying capability to it. A simple rack / box / bag combo instantly converts the motorcycle from a toy to a utility machine.
While I use my DRZ mostly for dirt riding, I generally dislike the idea of carrying stuff in a backpack. I prefer the freedom of not having something cling onto my back. So I went scouting for a nice rack for the DRZ so that I could find a platform to mount my Ogio tail bag.
I was resisting installing a set of crash bars on my Sertao. Reason being, the R1200GS used to be my primary bike, and the Sertao – my “dirt bike”. And I wanted to keep the weight low on the Sertao.
Now that I no longer own the R1200GS, the BMW G650GS Sertao is now my “primary bike”. For dirt fun? I have my DR(e)Z! (More on that another time…)
I loved the looks of the SW-Motech crash bars! I’ve looked at AltRider’s, looked at Touratech’s, considered the cheap Chinese-made “Touratech lookalikes” sold on AliExpress, and even bought the Givi ones some time back (sold them away later). I think there’s something real beautiful about the SW-Motech’s design.
Continue reading “SW-Motech Crash Bars on the BMW G650GS Sertao”The BMW G650GS has a dry oil sump design and has its oil reservoir situated where the fuel tank typically resides. And in typical BMW fashion, it requires a speciality tool to remove the oil cap. Yes, the bike’s accompanying tool kit does contain a multi-use wrench that would also open the oil fill cap. But accessing the tool pouch was an inconvenient 4-step process – top box removal, panel removal (using key), seat removal, then tool pouch removal (which is a pain due to the really tight space the tool pouch is situated).
So, for garage maintenance, and to encourage periodic checking of engine oil levels, I’d prefer to have a tool readily available.
The ones on eBay cost easily over $20. Just for a dumb piece of plastic – $20?!! So in true DIY fashion, after some measuring, I realised that any 22-23mm hexagonal tool should do the job. I dumped the idea of 3D-printing it – as it’ll likely cost as much as the $20 eBay tool for such a low-volume production.
Continue reading “The 60cents DIY BMW G650GS Oil Fill Cap Removal Tool”I’ve been using Meguair’s Quik Wax on my vehicles and motorcycle helmets with excellent results. Easy on, easy off application. Smells great too! However, I do find Quik Wax to be a little on the pricey side.
So since I had a can of Lemon Pledge laying around my house (I use it regularly to clean and polish home furniture), thought I’d give it a go on my motorcycle helmet.
I realised that one major ability that Pledge had that Quik Wax and most of the other waxes I previously used did not have was a very deep cleaning ability. Areas on my all-white helmet that started showing black’ish stains were easily removed using Pledge.
Inexpensive, effective, and so readily available – Pledge is now my newfound favourite helmet cleaner and polish!
I missed the cruise control on my R1200GS. Now with the 1200 gone, and the G650GS being my primary bike, I was searching for ways to introduce a cruise control-like feature on the otherwise low-tech bike. Until I came across the Kaoko Throttle Stabilizer!
The Kaoko isn’t a real cruise control. It simply adds some adjustable friction to the throttle to keep it in place. The solution is simple and elegant. And dare I say, not as “dangerous” as it sounds. It doesn’t lock the throttle at all, but merely introduces friction to hold it in place. Even with the additional friction employed (ie, cruise control ON), it was still relatively easy to ease off on the throttle merely by twisting it forward. Granted that it won’t “spring back”, but nothing a little twist of the wrist can’t handle.
Continue reading “Kaoko Throttle Control on the G650GS Sertao”
Took the DRZ out to the dirt this Sunday morning. Due to the Covid lockdown, it’s been some time since the Zee got some ride time.
It’s been almost 3 months since we’ve all been virtually imprisoned due to the Covid-19 pandemic. And I’ve not met my riding buddies in that same period of time. And since this was the first weekend since the Singapore government lifted the lockdown measures preventing social gathering, we took the chance to go for a ride!
We all desperately needed a ride. Of course, being good citizens and residents of Singapore, we kept the group size to a maximum of 5.
Continue reading “First Post Lockdown Sunday Morning Ride”Since I had accidentally pinched the inner tube on my DRZ while self-installing tires for the first time, I thought I’d use the opportunity to attempt a patch repair. Good to pick up a useful skill during this Covid Circuit Breaker season.
1. First, look for the puncture site.
2. Then scuff it up with a rasp file or some sandpaper.
3. Apply a generous coat of rubber cement / vulcanising paste.
4. Wait for at least 5mins to allow the rubber cement to dry.
5. Peel off the aluminium foil backing of the patch and apply patch onto puncture site.
6. Stitch the patch by rolling some blunt tool over it.
7. The patched tube is now ready for use!
